Re: Audio Cable dilemma

["Stuart Grimshaw" <stuart@xxxxxxx>]

> floor movement.  I'm assuming it's a glued-together floor, if not, you
> could lift a strip of it, make a slot in the concrete below, and run
the
> cable in conduit in the concrete.

I wouldn't do that if, like ours, the floor is sealed with that black
stuff,
you might be giving damp a way ointo the house, especially near the
walls...

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Stuart Grimshaw
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---------------------------------------

----- Original Message -----
From: Nigel Orr <Nigel.Orr@xxxxxxx>
To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Sent: 15 June 2000 09:10
Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Audio Cable dilemma


> At 15:26 14/06/00 +0100, you wrote:
> >As you all know any form of cabling is not Wife-Friendly
>
> The sort that isn't visible seems to be acceptable (phew!) :-)  But
that's
> trickier with modern houses, solid ground floors and
> weetabix^H^H^H^H^H^H^H^H chipboard upstairs floors
>
> A couple of ideas:
>
> How big is the expansion gap around the edge of the wooden floor?  I'm
> assuming it's a 'floating floor', as you say it's on a solid base. 
There
> might be room there, as long as you leave 10mm or the minimum required
for
> floor movement.  I'm assuming it's a glued-together floor, if not, you
> could lift a strip of it, make a slot in the concrete below, and run
the
> cable in conduit in the concrete.
>
> Can you find a friend with a router?  you can route out a slot along
the
> bottom of the skirting board, and cover it with some type of filler
(wood
> filler if it's varnished, polyfilla otherwise!)
>
> What are the walls made of?  If they're hollow, run it up, under the
> upstairs floor, and down the wall to the speaker position.
>
> Even if they're solid, as long as you have the right paint, it's
fairly
> easy to make a slot, put conduit in, and plaster and paint over it-
ideally
> in a hidden corner (eg a chimney alcove), as there will inevitably be
some
> difference in the finish.
>
> RF would work if all else fails, but nothing can beat your own
personal
> electromagnetic field surrounding a bit of copper (IMHO) :-)  The RF
ones
> will still need a power supply cable, which might not be any
prettier...
>
>  > option in terms of speaker cable? The output from the AMP is
"DIN
Continuous
> >Power Output (1kHz) in Surround Rear 80W per channel (8 ohm)
(using 1
> >channel)"
>
> Use whatever cable fits in the hole, preferably bigger than figure-8
bell
> wire!  I use 2.5mm T&E mains cable for all speaker wiring, but
it's well
> over-rated for the job, particularly for surround speakers, which will
> probably get hit with <5W for their entire life, and probably more
like 1W
> peak... but whatever cable you use, try it _before_ you install it! 
And,
> as ever, whatever you are installing, run 2-3 times as many cables (eg
> co-ax, UTP etc) as you think you need- you won't want to do it twice!
>
> Nigel
>
>
>
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>


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