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RE: Sensor


  • To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Subject: RE: Sensor
  • From: "Paul Gordon" <paul_gordon@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 16:10:48 BST
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

I had thought of using the headphone socket on the TV for this purpose, but
there are one or two problems associated with that:

1) it's on the front, behind a flap, connecting to it would definately
leave
the wire visible, and might also require leaving the flap down (I haven't
actually tried it)

2) I'd bet a fiver that plugging in to the headphone socket switches the TV
speakers off - no TV sound!!

Plus, I don't actually know whether the headphone output could be connected
directly to one of Comforts zone inputs?


Paul G.



>From: Williams Christopher C <CCWILLIAMS@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
>To: "'ukha_d@xxxxxxx'" <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Sensor
>Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2000 14:46:04 +0100
>
>Paul,
>
>I believe that HV has a sensor to detect a video signal coming from a
TV
>or VCR to determine if it is switched on.  Not sure if this could be
>made to work with Comfort?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Chris Williams
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Paul Gordon [SMTP:paul_gordon@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent:	Friday, August 04, 2000 10:48 AM
> > To:	ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject:	Re: [ukha_d] Sensor
> >
> > To be honest, I think I'll give up on it and put the sensor on my
> > freezer
> > instead, which is actually a bit more usefull when you think
about
> > it!!
> >
> > When it actually becomes important for Comfort to know the TV
status,
> > I'll
> > think about some other method of getting that info into the HA
system.
> > To be
> > honest, right now I wouldn't use that information anyway.
> >
> > Paul G.
> >
> > >Shame- only bodge that might work would be to split the live
wire
> > into 2
> > >cables similarly sized, and pass one through the coil with
the other
> > round
> > >the outside- it would be a bit hit-or-miss but if you put a
longer
> > wire
> > >through the coil (higher resistance, less current) and
shorten it to
> > suit
> > >(gradually increasing the current through the coil), you
might manage
> > to
> > >get it working reliably.
> > >
> > >Live- terminal block- 1m piece of wire, same size as live
conductor
> > >                              \
> > >                                 short bypass wire, same size
as live
> >
> > >conductor
> > >
> > >Nigel
> > >
> >
> >
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