Re: HA wiring

["Mark McCall" <mark@xxxxxxx>]

> Anyway, on a HA topic (if that is allowed!)

Sarcasm is good.

> Looked at Lutron and it is too expensive,

Agreed.

> are you all using X10?

I would say the majority are using it somewhere in their homes.  Plenty are
using other stuff too.

> Unless CEBUS etc is happening?

No.

> I'm looking at din rail modules for lamps, what is downside (if any)
> of using all dimmable ones LD11U type rather than AD10 type.

Nothing that I know of (as long as you are controlling lights and not
appliances).

> I will use momementary switches as this looks easiest for multi way
> switching. either MK or Clipsal

Yep...sounds good.

> For table / bedside lamps I'm could go for DIN LD11U+ 5A sockets or
> LM12U plug type dimmers.

I have 5amp sockets in the corners of most of the reception rooms as well
as
the upstairs and downstairs hall.  Works well and means you can control all
those table lamps etc from one switch on the wall as well as remotely.

> Does the LM12U buzz or get hot?

Not noticeable.  It's ugly though.  DIN rails are much nicer if you can do
it that way plus you get the added features of the LD11s.

> Do the DIN modules get hot. I am looking at about 18 LD11U's to
> start!! I have two possible locations.

They sometimes don't like being too close together.  I had problems with 2
circuits out of 34.  There are guidelines on the wiring guide that came
from
X10...here they are...

"If you decide to use X10 Din Rail modules like I did here is some
important
advice for your electrician.

Leave some space between the DIN rail dimmers. Two against one another is
OK, but it's better not to have three together on a rail. At one of its
sides, a DIN rail dimmers needs about one centimetre of space in order to
avoid side-effects due to heating.

When wires run too close to one another, some weird behaviour can occur. It
seems it does not happen if the length of the wiring is less than about 10
meters. Above that, X-10 recommends separating the wires.

Where it is impossible to separate the wires, a mains relay at the module
may fix the problem. "

> What about bathrooms, I would like light scenes, perhaps I could use
> SS13 as it is not mains powered, inside the bathroom. I know that it
> is intended to switch and dim three lights.

I have clipsal switched outside the bathrooms.  A mate is doing the SS13
thing you are talking about.  He will be using it to control his lights and
extractor fan.  He recons he's going to have different button to push for
varying FOUL smells.....5 minute fan, 10 minute fan and LEAVE THE HOUSE
I'VE
HAD A CURRY!

> Is it easy with a controller or PC to breakaway switches from lights.
> i.e. one switch turns on light 2 at 50% and light 5 at 10%, another
> turns light 2 at 20% and light 5 and 6 and 7 at 90%?

Yep..this is easy with a central HA controller.

> This way I would fix the logic of hall, stairs and landings by wiring
> momentary direct to DIN module, but have switches inside rooms which
> could be 'reprogrammed'. (To annoy visitors!!)
> To support this is there a multiple momentary switch input to any of
> the controllers that could support this.

Not sure what you mean here?  Do you want low voltage switches in the rooms
wired back to Comfort or HomeVision etc?

> Would anyone trust having only a SS13 inside a room and no REAL light
> switches??

No.

> Are there alternatives to SS13 (It is still a bit American!!)

If you mean a 433Mhz wireless UK X10 switch then no, I don't think so.

> Sorry for all the waffle, but it goes you a break from Windows of the
> week vs Linux.

Feck know I need it!! :-)

M.




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