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RE: Urgent question on AW10's


  • To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
  • Subject: RE: Urgent question on AW10's
  • From: "Kenneth Watt" <kennethwatt@xxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 00:53:04 +0100
  • Delivered-to: rich@xxxxxxx
  • Delivered-to: mailing list ukha_d@xxxxxxx
  • Mailing-list: list ukha_d@xxxxxxx; contact ukha_d-owner@xxxxxxx
  • Reply-to: ukha_d@xxxxxxx

Nope, someone screwed the pooch on that one :o)

K.

-----Original Message-----
From: 	Mark McCall [mailto:mark@xxxxxxx]
Sent:	23 April 2001 00:51
To:	ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject:	Re: [ukha_d] Urgent question on AW10's

Thanks Kenneth - did you choose your surname!!! :-)

M.


----- Original Message -----
From: Kenneth Watt <kennethwatt@xxxxxxx>
To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2001 12:43 AM
Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Urgent question on AW10's


> Basically, yes.
>
> The three lives will control the switch for you zone 1, zone 2 and
water
so
> if you intend to use relays I would advise three separate ones for
each
> heating zone. What you want to achieve is really very simple, a 12V to
240V
> relay fired from a relay port on HV to switch the juice either on or
off,
> that is exactly what your timer switch does only it switches in 240V.
your
> relay will switch using a 12V feed from HV but will throw its contact
to
> switch the 240V supply to your heating system. The neutrals are not a
worry
> as they are all common (hence the sparks term "common" and
"live") so they
> (neutrals/commons) can all be linked giving a permanent neutral feed
to
the
> whole set up. The only bit you should/need to worry about is how the
live
is
> switched.
>
> Given what you've told me you need three relays or AD10's, each one
should
> switch the live for each zone. The one wire you see coming into the
mains
> box is the common feed for the entire system, so you want to switch
the
> supplies beyond this point, i.e. where the wiring is in the time
switch
> itself. The easiest way is to look at the wiring on the back, inside
of
the
> timer/switch as it should have a schematic of the internals from that
it
is
> relatively easy to figure what goes where. If you have hassles mail
me,
more
> than happy to help.
>
> Each zone is just a switch, like a wall switch only controlled and
switched
> by your timer so once you suss what is switching it's really easy to
do.
>
> Mains is not a problem, you just need to follow some basic rules and
have
a
> meter to hand :o) anyway, a little jolt is good for the heart now and
then,
> at least that's what my boss used to tell me! Don't worry about
> experimenting, particularly if you have an RCD unit, you really can't
do
any
> harm if you have one of those. Fused supplies are a bit more tricky if
you
> do the wrong thing, but still as long as your not holding an open live
&
> neutral the worst you can do is pop a fuse.
>
> K.
>
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark McCall [mailto:mark@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 23 April 2001 00:19
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Urgent question on AW10's
>
> > Really it's just a case of figuring the switch wires, which on
any UK
240V
> > installation should be live only, unless your wiring is antique!
All an
> AD10
> > or relay is, is a live switch, think on it that way and life
becomes a
lot
> > clearer and easier.
>
> The mains stuff scares me.
>
> I have a mains spur on the wall with a single cable  to the timer
clock.
> Three cables emerge from it (upstairs, downstairs and hotwater).  Do I
just
> break these three cables and insert relays?
>
> Thanks
>
> M.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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