RE: Manual control of LD10/11 was RE: Conventions...

["Keith Doxey" <ukha@xxxxxxx>]

I did a schematic for Tracey Gardner to cover such an eventuallity.

Basically with the addition of a few low voltage relays the circuit is like
this.

System Normal. (+12V Automated present)
Switches wired via operated relay contacts to HA controller inputs.

System Failure (+12V Automated removed)
Switches wired via released relay contacts to small local relays that
control the direct switch inputs on the LD10's.

Only costs a few quid for all the relays required but gives extra security
(albeit with limited functionality) during system downtimes either because
of failure, upgrade or just whilst testing ideas.


Keith


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Griffiths [mailto:mike@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 12 August 2001 14:44
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Manual control of LD10/11 was RE: [ukha_d] Conventions...
>
>
> Best way to guard against computer failure s to Buy a HomeVision :)
> You can get over the problem in a big instalation by having Touchlinc
> screens as well
> Normally you just use them to fire commands to HomeVision
> But if that is out of action, on the rare occasion you might want
> to work on
> it (19" racks etc)
> You can always use Touchlinc direct
> At least HomeVision can track it
>
> Why not wire these buttons back to HomeVision Phil ?
>
>
> Works for me anyway
> My 2d
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from Home
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nigel Giddings [mailto:nigel.giddings@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: Sun 12 Aug 01 14:18
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Manual control of LD10/11 was RE: [ukha_d] Conventions...
>
> Phil,
>
> I would concur with Keith on the LD10/11 direct connection. I have
just
> installed 4 LD10/11's in my front room. This is a trial for a much
larger
> installation in a new house I hope to start building this year. I have
4
> push to make switches, 1 for each cct. and don't find them user
> friendly at
> all. So much so that I run a short script overnight to cycle them to
full
> brightness so that they do not return to the last remembered Dim
> setting in
> the morning if someone uses the 'Manual' switch on method.
>
> I now control the  Front Room lights via my Pronto and IR receiver and
run
> things like a 'Goodnight' script which turns off all the A/V equipment
and
> dims the lights 60 seconds later followed by off 60 seconds after that
>
> The idea of having buttons that represent scenes appears to be the way
to
> go. Especially as this would allow you to adjust lights in other rooms
or
> external lighting in conjunction with a scene. I am lucky to have a
lot of
> trees around my plot and hope to create a few effects with lights so
that
> when we sit down to dinner you are drawn to the view, even at
> night. In your
> case one or more scenes could include the curtains being closed. . .
>
> If you re feeling very confident why not have the switches
> operate different
> things depending on Sunset, Sunrise, and other variables.
>
> The fact that the software, Homeseer in my case, loses track of the
status
> when using the 'Manual Method' is also a big drawback.
>
> This does leave the issue of 'Manual Override' in case of
> Computer failure.
> This could be achieved by a number of switches located somewhere
> else, Node
> Zero ?
>
> I have not tried it but it could be possible to common all the LD10/11
> Manual connections to a single switch ? This would at least allow you
to
> turn all of them on and off manually on the rare occasion the PC is
down.
>
> HTH
>
> Nigel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Doxey [mailto:ukha@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 12 August 2001 10:19
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Conventions...
>
> Hi Phil,
>
> If you only ever have 1 lighting circuit and one curtain track in a
room
> then I would go for the same layout everywhere. ie Curtains on the
Right
> etc. If you are having multiple lighting circuits I would opt for low
> voltage control via HomeVision. Have 4 buttons for scenes OFF and
> scenes 1-4
> and a fifth button to toggle the curtains between open and closed
using a
> layout like this...
>
> 1   2
>   C
> 3   0
>
> The only advantage of direct switch control of an LD10/11 is that
> it doesnt
> rely on any other hardware.
>
> The BIG drawback is having to cycle through bright/dim to change the
level
> and the fact that the HA controller doesnt have a clue about what is
> happening. Also if you use Homevision to control the lights and
> curtains you
> can use a cheap (£1) relay to operate the curtains and you know what
state
> they are in because the controller set them that way. If all
> control is via
> either transmitted X10 signals or direct input to HV then you will
always
> keep track of house status.
>
> Keith
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Phil Harris [mailto:phillip.harris1@xxxxxxx]
> > Sent: 12 August 2001 00:59
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: [ukha_d] Conventions...
> >
> >
> >
> > Here's one for you!
> >
> > I am going to use LD10/11's to control my upstairs lights (4 x
> bedrooms +
> > stairs) and in the bedrooms I also have Swish curtain rails. My
> plan is to
> > use the modular Clipsal switch systems to control both the
> > LD10/11s and the
> > curtains from by the doors of the room. (i.e. so that you can
close the
> > curtains and put the light on at the same time and location).
> >
> > My question is, what do you guys think of how the switches should
be
> > arranged in a two hole plate? Should they all be the same with
> the curtain
> > switch on (say) the left and the light switch on the right or
> > should they be
> > done so that the light switch is in (say) the hole closest to
> the door and
> > the curtain switch in the hole furthest away?
> >
> > Tut tut ... the things that keep us awake at night!
> >
> > Phil
> >
> >
> > For more information: http://www.automatedhome.co.uk
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> >
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> >
> >
>
>
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