RE: Re: Controlling Heating

["Paul Gordon" <paul_gordon@xxxxxxx>]

Nik,

I haven't done any of this stuff, but I'm sure there are motorised valves
that use either 12V or 24V. - I guess in that case you can use a single LV
cable for both power and signal....

Check out the Honeywell Smartfit stuff on www.comfort.org.uk as well...

Paul G



>From: "Nikola Kasic" <nikola@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
>To: <ukha_d@xxxxxxx>
>Subject: RE: [ukha_d] Re: Controlling Heating
>Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2002 11:09:30 +0100
>
>Stuart,
>One general question:
>If I want to control central heating in each room individually,
each
>radiator has to have some kind of valve which is operated remotely.
>I asume that they will need power, so each radiator will need two
cables,
>one for power and one for control signal.
>Is there any way to reduce that cabling, so we don't need to rewire
house?
>Also, putting power socket into bathroom is against regulations, I
think.
>Nik
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: stuartgrimshaw [mailto:stuart@xxxxxxx]
>   Sent: 12 April 2002 00:51
>   To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
>   Subject: [ukha_d] Re: Controlling Heating
>
>
>   Hi Marc,
>
>   I just got my connection back after a month, and I was
scanning the
>   stuff I missed, and I noticed no-one replied to your mail,
that's
>   the problem on a list where the signal to noise ratio is
so low.
>
>   Anyway ... I beleive what you want to do is use a
Universal Module
>   (http://www.laser.com/?laserlink=SGUM506)
unit to drive a larger
>   relay to do the switching.
>
>   I know there are a couple of people use this or a similar
method,
>   and Keith D should be able to give you more precise
advice.
>
>   Also, have a look at "How do I automate...." in
the FAQ, there's a
>   link on there to Keiths site and info on how he did
something
>   similar.
>
>   --- In ukha_d@y..., "Marc Mosthav"
<marc@m...> wrote:
>   > Hi all,
>   >
>   > I would like to control my heating from my HA
computer. I do have
>   a Dallas temp. sensor and would like to control the
connection which
>   is usually connected to the thermostat. My problem is that
the
>   b****rd thing is 30VAC / 1A and that all the X10 relay
devices are
>   rated at xVDC. Am I thinking the wrong way 'round, am I
stupid or do
>   I have to do something totally different???
>   > BTW nobody answered my question about all my broken
TM13's so I
>   assume that they work fine for everybody else? Mine are
just
>   switched off and are not responding to anything.
>   > Any help on either question would be greatly
apreciated.
>   >
>   > Marc
>
>
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