RE: HC Cabling

["Graham Howe" <graham@xxxxxxx>]

Just thought I'd throw my comments in as Ken has already mentioned me ;-)

> Any particular reason to buy a ready made cable for the sub? I would
much
> rather run it to a faceplate with a phono socket. What spec cable does
it
> need?
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I have used faceplates for all my speaker connections including subs. In
my=
case the subs were connected with 'silver pink' cable source from my local=
AV dealer (I made the plates myself). The speakers were connected with som=
e pretty hefty biwire cable because all of my speakers allow biwiring.

> On the point of location of the AV amp would it be sensible or even
> feasible
> to run each speaker cable to the AV corner of the living room and
> terminate
> both ends on faceplates with 4mm sockets. Then run a further bundle of
x
> number of cables (where x is the number of speakers ) from the AV
corner
> to
> Node Zero. These would also terminate in 4mm sockets at each end, all
of
> this wiring would be channeled in the wall.
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I have not yet moved everything to node zero, but I am considering it (as
K=
en said). However my approach will be slightly unusual. I intend to have
al=
l sources and the AV amp in node zero and then power amps in the lounge
con=
nected to the speakers. The reason for this is two fold. First I have
alrea=
dy cabled the house and did not run speaker cable from node zero to the
lou=
nge. Second, Keith's KAT5s seem to convey line level AV perfectly over
long=
lengths of CAT5 and I have plenty of that.

> If the AV amp is in the Living room you just use the speaker sockets
and
> av
> corner sockets. If the Amp is in Node Zero you use a short cable with
4mm
> plugs at each end to connect the pairs of sockets in the AV corner,
this
> would provide connection from speaker to the amp in node zero.
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> This would mean the AV amp could be located in either location.
>=20
> I guess the extra set of plug/socket connection might degrade the
signal
> some but is there any reason it wouldnt work?
>=20
It would work, and with a powered signal probably not too much
degradation.=
However, depending on number of runs, biwiring, quality of speaker cable, =
the cost could be pretty high. For example my speaker wire is =A34.50 per
m=
etre and there are probably 50m in the walls around the lounge. CAT5 is
10p=
per metre and a pair of KAT5s about =A380.

Also, don't forget your video signals, if you move the AV amp any
significa=
nt distance from the project/plasma/TV then you could well have signal
prob=
lems as the video signal is line level. Of course this is another reason
fo=
r KAT5s to be used (Keith will be sending me the commission cheque as soon
=
as he receives your payment ;-).

Graham
>=20
>=20
> Thanks
> Mick
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>=20
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: Kenneth Watt [mailto:kwatt@xxxxxxx]
> Sent: 08 March 2003 20:46
> To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [ukha_d] HC Cabling
>=20
>=20
>   > I knew it would be a nightmare and although I do have the space
I
>   don't
>   > really want a dedicated HC room more somewhere to watch films
and a
>   bit of
>   > sport occasionally. The house is of fairly traditional design
and
>   neither
>   > of
>   > us like corner, freestanding or hole in the wall fireplaces so
we
>   decided
>   > on
>   > the old style;)
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>   Fair enough, I just think HC...then where to put the furniture &
>   fittings ;)
>=20
>   >  Your diagram shows pretty much what I wanted to know thank
you. Only
>   > thing
>   > I am unclear about is the centre speaker or speakers....I seem
to
>   recall
>   > reading a while back about using two centre speakers and in
some case=
s
>   two
>   > subs? It isn't something I intend doing soon but I want to
cable for
>   > everything I can possibly think of.
>=20
>   I would only cable for one centre as the likelihood of needing or
>   wanting another one is extremely slim for what you say of your use
for
>   it. Basically, two centres are used in some rooms, one above and one
>   below the display, to reputedly balance the sound. I have tried this
on
>   a couple of occasions and it's a waste of time IMHO a single good
centr=
e
>   is just as good as two if it's set up correctly almost universally
>   placed below the display.
>=20
>   Two subs, is that all? You can never have enough subs! ;)
>=20
>   I use three in here, but that's a bit extreme TBH, one is fine for
most
>   people and since they are omni-directional situating the sub/s is
not
>   *really* that critical depending on how fussy you want to be and the
>   subs and room/furnishings. The problem with it is that to do that
you
>   really need to have the sub/s and the room furnished for the
ultimate
>   sound, me I couldn't give a monkey's TBH what the hi-fi guru's
prattle
>   on about. I fired two subs at either side roughly where the one I
showe=
d
>   in the diagram is and then launched a little 'un on the rear pair.
>=20
>   > Another question is on  the location of the AV amp and
therefore wher=
e
>   I
>   > run
>   > the speaker cables to...do I stick it in Node Zero or do I keep
the
>   amp in
>   > the room.
>=20
>   Hmm, tough call that one and it is very dependant on what you want
>   personally. I have all my AV kit in the one room but I know a lot of
>   people run it to a node 0, personally I don't hold with that but in
som=
e
>   cases there is little option, especially aesthetically. Needless to
say
>   it can be done and fairly easily, I think Graham Howe did that
exactly
>   so maybe best to ask him about how to and the problems involved if
any.
>=20
>   > And finally does any of this require non-speaker cable, for
example
>   for
>   > the
>   > sub?
>=20
>   If it's a powered sub then normally it's wired with a single phono
plug
>   connection from the amp to the sub you can buy them in various
lengths
>   from any hi-fi store quite easily and they're not that expensive
either=
.
>   Powered subs, obviously I suppose from the name, require power for
thei=
r
>   internal amps. So basically a long single phono plug lead and a
socket
>   for power and you're good to go.
>=20
>   For a passive sub you need to run the feed off of which you want the
su=
b
>   to come from, split it and run it back to the speakers. TBH though a
>   passive sub these days is as rare as rocking horse doo doo and
chances
>   are it'll be powered.
>=20
>   ATEOTD a lot of it comes down to what you want and what you like and
>   don't let anyone tell you different. ;)
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>   HTH
>=20
>   K.
>=20
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