RE: Re: X10 DIN module wiring ?

["James Mitchelmore" <james@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

My experience with ikea transformers is as follows:
=20
Had 60va worth of dichroics fed from an osram 105va =91halotronic=92
electronic tx via a plug in lamp module of part of a marmitek kit.
Worked fine, nice smooth dimming, etc.  Decided that the 105va could be
utilised better elsewhere so swapped it with the (apparently bog
standard wire wound) ikea chap and everything went horribly wrong.
=20
Advice:  Use the ikea fittings and wire as they are cheap as chips, but
supply it with something slightly more reputable.
=20
HTH
=20
James
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: egelbeertje [mailto:r_d_k@xxxxxxx]=20
Sent: 23 March 2004 13:22
To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
Subject: [ukha_d] Re: X10 DIN module wiring ?
=20
Hi Marcus,

Transformers and dimming, you're right, some of the el cheapo style=20
transformers don't like dimming, make sure to check the specs.
As a rule of thumb, if it's a standard wire & coil transformer - it=20
should be dimmable, if it's an electronic one - it should be=20
specified on the unit. Also make sure you have a minimum load on=20
every ld11 circuit to avoid erratic behaviour - I think it's about=20
60watts.

As far as wiring goes, all you need is a 230v live on the ad10/ld11=20
input to switch it on, you could hop the live feed from 1 to the=20
next, just make sure it's according to building regs and use ample=20
wire diameter. Same goes for the neutral. Personally I would stay=20
clear of brass connectors for anything else but grounding.
You could put a circuit breaker as an add on, just make sure it's=20
rated lower than the one driving the ring - or it'll never blow.
I do have some drawing I could mail you if wanted - don't have a=20
digicam yet so no pics.

rgds Rob.

--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "Marcus Warrington"
<marcusw@m...>=20
wrote:
> We are just having our attics skimmed and new ceilings put in etc,=20
so I took the opportunity to rip out the old wiring and have run a=20
single T&E from a small landing cupboard to each lighting point( 6
in=20
total)  and a single switch wire from each switch (3 in total) to the=20
same cupboard. Actually most switch plates have 2 or 3 switch wires=20
because each attic has more than one light.
>=20
> At the moment this tangle of wires are just connected together (via=20
chocolate block connectors) to form a normal circuit. I am now about=20
to stick a consumer box in the cupboard and then rewire using LD11's=20
and/or AD10's
>=20
> BTW not many places seem to sell empty consumer boxes (i.e. without=20
the circuit breaker etc), I got a nice MK 12 unit empty consumer unit=20
>from
>=20=20
> So now the questions...
>=20
> I am intending using some low voltage lights in each attic.., twin=20
wires spanning across room with lamps suspended in-between. Am I=20
better using AD10s to control these or can the LD11's dim low voltage=20
lamps ? The lights are from IKEA if that helps.. can't imagine=20
they're top quality transformers as a couple of the lights (3 lamps=20
units) only cost =A38 for the whole kit !
>=20
> How do wire the DIN modules into the consumer box. Looking at=20
a "normal" consumer box it makes use of a common bus bar to link
the=20
Neutrals of the DIN modules together. With the X10 Din modules, do I=20
simply take the incoming power cable and wire the Neutral to the top=20
Neutral bar, the incoming Earth to the top Earth bar, and then buy=20
another brass connector block to connect the Live feed to... or do I=20
simply connect the Live to the first DIN module and then jumper from=20
each. If I use another brass connector so I have to be concerned=20
about the amount of power i.e. will it get too hot.. how do I secure=20
it into the consumer box.. hot melt glue..epoxy glue ?
>=20
> When wiring the switch to the LD11 I assume I wire one wire to the=20
top of the DIN module and the other to the common Live feed ?
>=20
> I'm also wondering if its worth putting a single isolation breaker=20
module between the incoming power feed and all the DIN modules so I=20
can isolate the attic without turning off the whole circuit (which=20
includes the main downstairs hallway)
>=20
> Has anyone got some piccies showing how they have wired theirs ?
>=20
> I also currently have a strange situation were one ring in the=20
house can not send X10 messages to another ring. i.e. I have an RF=20
receiver on the downstairs ring and any codes I send via the remote=20
do not hit an appliance module on the upstairs ring. At the moment I=20
get around this by having 2 receiver units (one on each ring) but its=20
not an ideal solution. I have read about X10 failing if the rings are=20
on different phases .. does this effect the UK ?
> I don;t think its something on the ring killing the signal (i.e.=20
fridge) because I can actually pass messages around devices on that=20
ring just not from devices transmitting from another ring..
>=20
> Any help or advice appreciated
>=20
> Marcus



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