RE: Steamproof downlights

["Hawes,Timothy Edward \(GEG\)" <haweste@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's true that most IP-ratings tables do not mention "steam
proof"
however, IP69K is often used for industrial sensors subject to high
temperature / pressure and/or steam wash-downs. See:
http://tinyurl.com/9x9xc for a bit
more info.  IP69K is somewhat of an
overkill for domestic use though.

There's some advice for saunas etc. here:
http://www.bathroomexpress.co.uk/light.htm
I've no idea if it's good
advice, however :-)

Moving the kettle, does sound the simplest solution :-)

HTH,

Tim.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: michael.furlong
>
> Move the kettle?
>
> Problem with this is likely to be that the steam causes
> condensation on the inside of the fitting.
>
> I am not sure that even an IP rated fitting is going to solve
> the problem as steam is not mentioned in the ratings.
>
> mick
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: Peter Church
>
> I've been having recurrent problems with one of the 12v
> downlights installed in a 'floating' shelf beside the cooker
> in our kitchen - the bulb often flickers and blows
> repeatedly.  The fitting is a Screwfix cabinet downlight and
> I've replaced the fitting and the problem resumes.  Another
> light on the same circuit has no problem so I can rule out
> the transformer (Aurora btw...)
>
> Other than the wiring, the only thing different between the
> two lights is that the dodgy one sits above the kettle - and
> I can imagine how that could cause corrosion on hot contacts
> of the capsule bulb.
>
> Does anyone have any experience of a similar problem, or
> better has anyone got a similar situation and not got the
> problem and can suggest a better fitting.
>
> I'm thinking of resorting to an IP rated fitting (not sure
> where steam comes in the IPxx ladder...), but as the small
> depth is an issue might have to resort to some expensive
> marine fittings.
>
> Any thoughts
>
> TIA Pete
>