Re: Lighting Design for Kitchen

[Ben McCormack <yahoogroup@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Paul

Looking at the calculations again I come up with 9 50w lights needed=20=20
to cover the kitchen. Thats in a basic grid pattern. Now I will want=20=20
to add some more lights over the Aga and Island unit. So this would=20=20
give me a total of 12 lights in the ceiling.

I will also have the under cabinet mini fluorescent tubes and I can=20=20
put there directly onto the 12 Ch Relay

There is also a dining area that is 3.5 * 5.1. So lets assume 8
lights=20=20
in this area.

Currently I have the following dimmers

8Ch - 1 Amp per Ch
4Ch - 2 Amp per Ch
4Ch - 5 Amp per Ch

So using 50w Bulbs I can have 4 dimmed per 1 Amp Channel.

Kitchen

4 Zones in the kitchen
3 * 4 50w Downlighters
1 * Relay for under cabinet

Dining Area

4 Zones in Dining Area
2 * 4 50w Downlighters
1 * Light above the table
1 * Relay for lamp sockets on sideboard


Paul - How much are the fittings from the Light Corporation.

From Aurora I can get the following

http://www.aurora-lighting.com/ProductPages/LampProductDetails.aspx?g=3D295=
2&c=3D81&b=3D71&oc=3D81
For =C2=A33.76 each

Ben




On 29 Dec 2008, at  13:08, Paul Gale wrote:

> Oh, and you obviously need to think about placement - do you have
a=20=20
> dining table or breakfast bar etc in there? Is it moveable? Is
the=20=20
> positioning of the fittings flexible enough to cope with a
re-layout=20=20
> of the furniture (as has happened to me several times after=20=20
> installation).
>
> If you go with tiltable fittings, this gives some level of
control=20=20
> over the direction of the light (within limits of the fitting).
I=20=20
> specified the Sunbeam fittings from the light corporation for all
of=20=20
> the downlights I was fitting or replacing (about 40 IIRC) - was
a=20=20
> good move as they allowed "fine tuning" of the light
position to get=20=20
> the best result. They are obviously more expensive though - but
if=20=20
> you've gone to the expense of CBus, it's got to be worth it!? :)
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On=20=20
> Behalf
> > Of Ben McCormack
> > Sent: 29 December 2008 12:02
> > To: ukha_d@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: [ukha_d] Lighting Design for Kitchen
> >
> > All
> >
> > With regard to required light levels I think I am getting
somewhere
> > with the American regulations
> >
> > http://www.redwoodcity.org/cds/building/pdf/handouts/Electrical/kitchen
> > _lighting_requirements.pdf
> >
> > "A design recommendation may be to utilize the Illuminating
> > Engineering Society
> > of North America (IESNA) guidelines that at least 30 footcandles
of
> > light be
> > provided for seeing tasks in kitchens'
> >
> > and
> >
> > One footcandle =E2=89=88 10.764 lux.
> >
> > This gives a recommended lux level of 320.
> >
> > Now with 20W bulbs I need 20 Lights
> > and
> > with 50w bulbs I need 9 Lights.
> >
> > Ben
> >
> >
> >
> > On 29 Dec 2008, at 11:52, Ben McCormack wrote:
> >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > > I have been looking at the Light Corporation for a while.
They are
> > > based just down the road from me.
> > >
> > > I was also looking at Jonh Cullen but as you say they
are=20=20
> expensive
> > > and also design to use their own fittings, this pushes the
cost=20=20
> up.
> > >
> > > The only thing I can't currently work out is the
required=20=20
> illuminance
> > >
> > > 320 lux Recommended office lighting (Australia)[8]
> > > 400 lux Sunrise or sunset on a clear day. Well-lit office
area.
> > > 500 lux Lighting level for an office according to the
European law
> > UNI
> > > EN 12464
> > >
> > > If I go with 500lux I end up with 25 lights just in the
ceiling
> > >
> > > Drop that down to 320lux and it comes out at 16 fittings.
> > >
> > > Ben
> > >
> > > On 29 Dec 2008, at 10:48, Paul Gale wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Ben,
> > > >
> > > > I think you're doing the right thing designing yourself
- I=20=20
> used a
> > > > "medium" level designer from John Cullen
Lighting in London but
> > > > really did most of it myself anyway when I was speaking
to her!
> > > > Wasted cash in my case (about =C2=A3500 IIRC) - that
was for the ne=
w
> > > loft
> > > > office and stair wells.
> > > >
> > > > 25 fittings is a LOT!, but if a load of them are
task/uplights/
> > > > effect then that's closer. Still, they'll cost a
fortune with
> > > > associated CBus dimmers and transformers, fittings and
good=20=20
> quality
> > > > lamps! I'd say, get that number down a bit if you can.
> > > >
> > > > If they're 50W halogen, running costs would also be a
factor you
> > > > shouldn't ignore.
> > > >
> > > > Do use a high quality lamp though - I used Bell
Aluminium=20=20
> halogen
> > > > 5000hr dichroic lamps with a range of beam angles. They
also=20=20
> have
> > > > the benefit of throwing most of the heat forwards, so
reducing=20=20
> the
> > > > fire risk and melting of fitting/transformer etc
behind! Good
> > > > quality lamps make a big difference to the quality of
light and
> > life
> > > > of the lamp.
> > > >
> > > > I replaced most of my downlights with a
"dark" effect halogen=20=20
> - has
> > > > a black ring baffle inside the body before the lamp to
reduce
> > > > horizontal glare. This is nice as it adds a real
feeling of
> > > > "designed" lighting - a lot less eye drawing
glare on the=20=20
> ceiling,
> > > > more "pools" of light in carefully chosen
places etc.
> > > >
> > > > Also consider the angle of beam of the lamp - you can
do some=20=20
> great
> > > > things with really narrow beams to illuminate smaller
items/=20
> areas
> > > > and use the light as a effect light. Also coloured
filters/=20
> dichroic
> > > > lenses can be fun.
> > > >
> > > > These are the range I used for my replacement and
new=20=20
> downlights:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.lightcorporation.com/cat/downlights.php
> > > >
> > > > Also used these in the loft shower room which look
pretty=20=20
> funky -
> > > > really well made solid aluminium turned fittings - top
quality:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.lightcorporation.com/cat/cam50.php
> > > >
> > > > I also used a number of colour changeable LED
marker/uplights=20=20
> from:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.abstractavr.com/
> > > >
> > > > I used a custom version of:
> > > >
> > > > http://www.abstractavr.com/steplights/
> > > >
> > > > with 1W RGB LED's in, driven from a DMX capable LED
driver. I've
> > not
> > > > programmed them up yet, but will eventually be
controlled via=20=20
> CBus
> > > > and Kevin's xAP/HV/CBus gateway (fab bit of kit!)
> > > >
> > > > HTH?
> > > >
> > > > Paul.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> -----Original Message-----
> > > >> From: ukha_d@xxxxxxx [mailto:ukha_d@xxxxxxx] On
> > > >> Behalf
> > > >> Of Ben McCormack
> > > >> Sent: 29 December 2008 10:05
> > > >> To: UKHA Mailinglist; UK Selfbuild
> > > >> Subject: [ukha_d] Lighting Design for Kitchen
> > > >>
> > > >> All
> > > >>
> > > >> I have started looking into the lighting design for
the=20=20
> kitchen.
> > > The
> > > >> space is quite large 4.5 * 5.5m and all of the
lighting will be
> > > >> controlled by cbus dimmers.
> > > >>
> > > >> I have considered using a lighting designer but
thought I would
> > > >> have a
> > > >> go myself last night.
> > > >>
> > > >> The plan is to have low voltage halogens in the
ceiling and=20=20
> then
> > > task
> > > >> lights under the cabinets.
> > > >>
> > > >> So I started by finding that Aurora seem to produce
nice=20=20
> fittings
> > > and
> > > >> transformers at a reasonable price. (http://www.aurora-
> > lighting.com/
> > > )
> > > >>
> > > >> I then found Relux which is a lighting design
program. Aurora
> > > produce
> > > >> the specifications for each and every one of their
fittings=20=20
> that
> > > >> feeds
> > > >> into Relux. (http://www.relux.biz/) The software is
free to
> > > download
> > > >> and not too difficult to get your head around.
> > > >>
> > > >> So I chose a standard Aurora fitting and put all of
the room
> > > details
> > > >> into Relux.
> > > >>
> > > >> You can also add things like windows and different
finished=20=20
> on the
> > > >> floor and walls.
> > > >>
> > > >> Fitting - http://www.aurora-
> > > >> lighting.com/ProductPages/LampProductDetails.aspx?
> > > >> g=3D2951&c=3D6&b=3D71&oc=3D81
> > > >>
> > > >> There are a couple of factors that affect the
calculation
> > > >>
> > > >> Maintenance Factor - I assume this is used for
commercial
> > > >> installations where Maintenance and blown bulbs can
be a major
> > > issue.
> > > >> I set this to 1.
> > > >>
> > > >> Illuminance Required - After digging around I left
this set=20=20
> at 500
> > > >> lx.
> > > >> This seems to be a reasonable figure to use.
> > > >>
> > > >> The end result of this is 25 Light fittings in this
space.=20=20
> Spaced
> > > >> on a
> > > >> 1m grid.
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> So how does this compare with other people who have
fitted low
> > > >> voltage
> > > >> in the kitchen. It seems rather a lot of light
fittings to me?
> > > >>
> > > >> Regards
> > > >> Ben
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> ------------------------------------
> > > >>
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>=20



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