Re: Manifold/TRV actuators - 24V or 240V?

["leewild80" <muddyboots@xxxxxxxxx>]

Might be easier to use one of the standard UFH wiring centres, such as
this=
Heatmiser UH1:
http://www.heatmiser.co.uk/switch_boxes.htm

...and then just use the relays of the 1-wire IO board to replace the
input=
s of the usual zone thermostats.

That way you've got zone control via 1-wire, plus pump control, but with
al=
l the mains wiring etc all safely taken care of via the wiring centre.
Woul=
d save quite a bit of hassle I'd have thought.

Lee



--- In ukha_d@xxxxxxx, "simon_haslam" <simon_haslam@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm nearly at the point of finishing off my CH installation and have
to s=
ort out the actuators for the 7 port manifold that will run my radiator
zon=
es.
>=20
> I will be controlling the zones using a HobbyBoards 1-wire 8 channel
I/O =
board (http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=3D24&prod=
ucts_id=3D1554) which has 8 relays on it, each rated at up to 60W
(0.25A@24=
0V).
>=20
> I can get both 24V and 240V actuators for my manifold. I was
originally g=
oing to use 24V ones as they would be low voltage within whatever
enclosure=
I find for the relay board. The 24V actuators are AC so I was planning to =
drive them from Maplin power supply (Maplin 1.5A L55BR http://www.maplin.co=
.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3D96964&OrderCode=3DL55BR).
>=20
> However I am now thinking I'll need at least one 240V relay (to
control t=
he boiler demand) so maybe I should have all the actuators as 240V too?
Tha=
t would be about =A333 cheaper (actuators + PSU), plus if a future owner
wa=
nted to use some other controls later (1-wire isn't very
plumber-friendly!)=
I suppose 240V is far more common and could be easily rewired. A 24V AC PS=
U would be another thing to go wrong too.
>=20
> Note: power consumption is about same - 24V supply uses about 4W when
idl=
e & according to spec the 24V actuators is 3VA whereas the 240V is
3.45VA. =
So for 7 valves open that's ~25W for 24V actuators and 24W for 240V ones.
>=20
> What do people think? Stick to 24V and know everything is low voltage
(an=
d no Part P concerns) or go for the much more common 240V?
>=20
>=20
> Simon (procrastinating again!)
> PS. I've posted this on Navitron too and will report back any
response.
>




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